"There's a Cava for every moment, and for me, every moment is a good one to enjoy a Cava" Raúl Igual, Sommelier, Restaurante Yain

As a young man, he wasn't particularly interested in wine, but as he began to delve into wine lists, and had to add selections to them, his curiosity grew. He enrolled at the Teruel School of Hospitality and Tourism at the age of just 17, but it wasn't until he was 20, during an internship at the restaurant Zalacaín in Madrid, that everything changed. With Custodio Zamarra by his side, it was impossible not to fall in love with the world of wine. After a three-month internship he was confident enough to open bottles in private rooms. He excelled at it, and Zamarra encouraged him to take part in serving wine, and also took him to tastings around the capital. After working in Aragón for a while, he ended up at Ferran Adrià's elBulli. He had planned to stay for two months there, but it ended up being two years. "I arrived bursting with enthusiasm and eagerness. I've always been a hard worker," he says. He learned a lot from everyone, especially Juli Soler. Raúl Igual is a sommelier. Since 2007, he has been at the helm of his restaurant in Teruel: Yain, which means "wine" in Hebrew. He was named Spain's Best Sommelier in 2010, and in 2021 was awarded the Best Sommelier distinction at the International Wine Challenge Merchand Awards. This year, he climbed from fifth to third place on the list of Spain's Top 100 Sommeliers. He is recognized for his "talent, perseverance, and passion for excellence in the dining room and in the world of wine." In fact, his daily routine has included studying wine geography every morning. He is a discreet, polite, methodical, and generous professional. He is determined, and answers every question with the utmost kindness, composure, and thoroughness. He shares his wine preferences on social media from the peaceful haven of his garden. Among the latest is a Cava: the 2013 micro-batch 9 from Maria Rigol Ordi, a blend of Xarel·lo, Macabeu, and Pinot Noir grapes. It stands out for "its nobility, sincerity, warmth, and love for tradition." He discusses the texture of its lees, the advantages of its long aging process, its fruit, its structure, and especially its bubbles, which gradually integrate "without overshadowing the wine beneath them." Cava is part of his emotional landscape: "My father lived in Barcelona for ten years, so bubbles are always present at family gatherings," he shares. They're also present at Yain, building bridges between Teruel and Catalonia.

After your experience with Ferran Adrià, how did you end up back in Teruel?

While at elBulli, I already had Yain in mind. I never cut my ties with Teruel, and I always wanted to go back. I opened in 2007, and then in 2008 the housing crisis hit. We had put everything into this. Those were incredibly tough years, and at first I couldn't see any way out. The crisis was insane, and I had no choice but to start studying. I saw a way forward in wine, with the wine list serving as a major draw for people from outside our community.

Then came the Best Sommelier in Spain distinction.

I competed for the first time in 2010 and won. No one from Aragon had ever won the competition before. That was when my luck turned around. I studied, and that had a positive impact on the restaurant. Things were starting to pick up at home. Our winters are very harsh, but from that point on, everything changed. In 2013, I competed in the World Sommelier Competition in Tokyo and finished in 32nd place. At the time, I thought that was terrible, but I did it without any resources, with just a few sommelier friends by my side helping me… Today, I see it in a completely different light; it was truly commendable. In 2015, I completed the Advanced Sommelier course offered by The Court of Master Sommeliers in London, but I decided to stay there. Roberto Duran won the title last year, but by that point I had to sacrifice my family, and I told myself that I didn't want to be selfish. I didn't need it anymore. In 2025, I was also recognized as one of the 100 Top Sommeliers, ranking among the top five in Spain.

The recognition continues after 15 years on the front lines. Where do you think you've learned the most: on the restaurant floor or from books and competitions?

I think it's always fifty-fifty. You put everything you learn into practice on the floor. When you make a purchase decision, you aim to buy what you've studied. When you don't have the financial means, you travel and try as much as you can. But when you have the ability to buy and manage, everything you aim for comes from learning. You search extensively to acquire the wines you've studied, and then there's the challenge of ensuring that they rotate.

What does Yain mean to you?

I wanted to bring something more affordable to Teruel, not haute cuisine. For me, elBulli was about fine dining for everyone. You could go and enjoy a 35-course tasting menu that, at the time, cost 180 euros. They were tapas priced at 5 euros each. You could discover the latest culinary techniques, and that seemed affordable to me. It wasn't a rip-off. And that left a deep and lasting impression on me. When I was working at Enoteca Pinchiorri in Florence, I served spaghetti dishes priced at 90 euros. It was fresh pasta, and it was made right there on the spot, but it was pasta, after all, and that was truly a luxury. So, I wanted to go back home. I never intended to recreate elBulli, as I didn't know how, but I did want to create something genuine at an affordable price, showcasing local ingredients. I wanted it to be simple, with refined, subtle flavors—nothing outlandish. As for the name, Yain means "wine" in Hebrew. The restaurant is located in the Plaza de la Judería, or Jewish Square. It almost seemed like the place chose them, as during construction a 14th-century wine cellar was discovered right where we are today.

So, the culinary concept taken from elBulli not only improved, but has continued to grow over the years.

For about 15 years we focused heavily on the local region and all its products. However, I enjoy traveling, and while Teruel and Aragon take center stage, you gradually incorporate products, spices, cooking methods, and ideas from your travels... Wine is also a part of many leisure trips, as it's found in so many places…

What role does Cava play at Yain?

While sparkling wines are less common in our area, and can sometimes seem complicated, I have to acknowledge that there are customers who absolutely love them. I always follow the tradition my father taught me. He lived in Catalonia for 10 years, so Cava is always present at our family gatherings. Our restaurant menu features established, leading projects like Pares Baltà, as well as cooperative initiatives such as Covides. In this case, it's a Cava created by a distributor for our restaurant under its own label. It depicts three friends toasting with Cava in the Plaza del Torico, and the house behind them is a Modernist building designed by the architect Pau Monguió, a descendant of Gaudí. It's a project I strongly support because it bridges Teruel and Catalonia. Turnover is modest, but that doesn't stop us from championing it. There's a small selection of labels, but each one is chosen with great care.

When does Cava appear at tables?

I always like to offer it at the start. I brought this idea from elBulli. There, there was always an aperitif with sherry, cava, or champagne. There's always a bottle or two of Cava open in the restaurant. I choose from various options based on the diner's preference, or the occasion, depending on how special it is. I also like offering it during meals. It offers a lot of versatility in terms of pairings. We don't use it as much for toasting. I think diners are already full after a long meal. Cava has evolved significantly, offering a wide range of possibilities and allowing for excellent pairings.

What about Raul Igual's personal life?

Cava can be enjoyed at any time — at parties, during moments of joy and celebration, and moments of peace, quiet, and relaxation. It's clear that during this time of friends and celebrations, Cava should be more casual, with acidity, fruitier, and a bit fresher. When you're seeking peace, reflection, or a break, that's when the long-aged Cavas come in. "There's a Cava for every moment, and for me, every moment is a good one to enjoy a Cava"

What does Raul Igual think about the Cava business landscape?

I think the wine business is so beautiful that it always transcends numbers. I like to think about its roots with different places and their heritages, lands, families and cultures. Passion often makes you forget that it's a business. Small projects grasp the concept of roots more clearly, but they struggle to understand the business side. But I think the important thing is always to champion the origin, the diversity of styles, the aging, the varieties...

On Yain's wine list there appears a quote from Francesco Josko Gravner: "Wine is produced by nature, not by man. As such, its growth and maturation must be supported, without interference." What spurred you to include that?

I like wines from coherent projects. And that doesn't mean they always have to be small wineries. I defend large wineries that excel, those with the ability to open up markets, put regions on the map, and render others more visible. Both large and small wineries are needed. Each thrives on the spark of its opposite. What is important is quality. I like it when wines tell truths. You have to build a brand, and you have to do it really well. And to segment by audience and wine style.

After nearly 20 years at Yain, is the wine list what you initially envisioned?

I knew exactly what I wanted from the start. I wanted to showcase wines that reflect my life. There are Burgundy wines that Juli Soler introduced me to, Italian wines from my time in Florence, and wines from Alto Adige, the Amalfi Coast, and Calabria… There are wines from Hungary and from many iconic places around the world… but it's the wines from the Teruel area that have shown the greatest evolution. I want to serve local wines and help people discover them. In many cases they're small-scale productions, and I believe Yain is a place where they can be showcased and gain visibility. The whole world is represented, but the foundation is local, top-quality wine.

Could you suggest a couple of pairings? The first is with a Cava aged for 9 months.

Well, for a wine with a short aging period, I'd suggest two dishes: salted sardines drizzled with extra virgin olive oil, served with red peppers and toast. It's a Yain classic that's really delicious and pairs well with the sparkle and acidity of the bubbles. The second is cod, which we desalt ourselves, daily. With creamed corn, pickled onion, and ginger.

And with a long-aged Cava, what dish by Chef Iñaki Cubas would you have in mind?

Lamb prepared the traditional way: a la pastora (shepherd’s style). Roasted at a low temperature, deboned, and bathed in a sauce with thyme, rosemary, and nuts, giving it a very spicy touch. The long aging will go wonderfully with the creamy notes of autolysis.

The hospitality industry is very demanding and requires a lot of sacrifice. Where does Raul Igual find refuge from it, and which Cava would he choose to unwind with?

Well, the place where I feel calm and relaxed is in my garden. It's a place where you don't have to put on any kind of show, where you're always comfortable. There, all your problems fade away, especially when your family is with you and doing well. And there's always Cava. The latest one I recommended on Instagram, as you've already seen, is Maria Rigol Ordi's micro-batch 9, which they describe as something extremely evocative and dreamlike.